Balanced Lips: the top lip is a cupids bow shape; bottom and top lips are equal in proportion and fullness, defined vermillion. Balanced lips can be softly accented or boldly dramatized.
2.
Undefined Lips: the lip shape is not visible, pale in colour. Use a lip pencil to design and shape the lip. Fill in with a soft to bright colour. Stay away from dark colours.
3.
Thin Lips: especially when smiling. Overdraw the lips using the Lip Graph for direction. Apply natural to medium shades, brights, and metallics with shimmer and shiny finishes. The worst colours are anything dark and matte. These colours will make you look like Cruella de Ville.
4.
Full Lips: to make full lips look less full use neutral to dark tones and stains with a matte finish. Begin colour application in centre of your mouth and fade the colour to the outer edge of mouth to “sink” the mouth.
5.
Top Heavy/Bottom Heavy Lips: match the weaker lip to the stronger one. For example, overdraw a slim top lip to match and balance the stronger bottom lip. The reverse works for the opposite.
6.
Down turned Lips: a great way to “lift” the outer corners of the mouth is to place oundation/concealer right at the very outside corner of the mouth on a 45 degree angle upwards and over the “droopy” top corners. Blend well into place. Start the lip liner further into the mouth, away from the “old-droopy” corner to redirect the angle into a happier one.
7.
Uneven Lips: irregular, lopsided and unbalanced lips take great dexterity to remedy. Use concealer/foundation to eliminate the areas you want to disguise. The Lip Graph comes in great use here. Place dots and connect for a preliminary design. Refine shape and fill in with colour.
